African Black Soap: From Traditional Roots to Contemporary Routines
By: Amy Niu
Popular among individuals of African descent, African black soaps are distinct for their light brown to black coloration, with the exact shade dependent on the preparation method [1]. African black soap originated from West Africa — specifically from Nigeria and Ghana [1]. In Nigeria, Hausa people know traditional African black soap as “Sabilum-salo,” Yoruba people know it as “Ose dudu” or “abuwe,” and Igbo people call it “Ncha-Nkota” [1]. In Ghana, the soap is called “Alata samina” or “Anago soap” [1].
According to Ogunbiyi and Enechuwu (2021), African black soaps refer to those soaps made from “ash-derived alkali from agricultural waste and oil extracted from vegetable matter.” This waste can include wood, sugar beet waste, banana leaves, maize cobs, palm bunch chaff, cocoa pods, and roasted plantain peels [1]. In the production of black soap, agricultural waste is dried in the sun and roasted into ash, which contains potassium and sodium [1]. The ashes are then mixed with water to yield alkali [1]. The resulting solution is boiled for a couple hours until it turns dark, left to cool, and mixed with oil [1]. The soap is left to cure for days until it is ready to be used [1]. Palm kernel oil, palm oil and shea butter are common base oils used in African black soap [1]. These oils are rich in fatty acids such as oleic acid, stearic acid and lauric acid, which help the soap lather, though the exact quantity of fatty acids depends on the method used to extract the oil from plant material [1]. The components of black soap vary based on the region where it was produced and the availability of the ingredients [1].
Benefits of African black soap
Traditional African black soap has demonstrated antimicrobial activity against common pathogens found in sub-Saharan Africa, such as Staphylococcus aureus and bacteria in the Streptococcus genus [1]. Ogunbiyi and Enechuwu (2021) write, “Traditional African black soap has been reported to have an inhibitory effect against skin microbiota such as, Corynebacterium species, E. coli, Bacillus species, and Staphylococcus epidermidis.” Phytochemicals and fatty acids present in the oils in black soap are believed to be responsible for these antimicrobial effects [1]. Certain additives to black soap such as aloe vera, parts of lime fruit and Camwood extracts have also demonstrated antimicrobial activity [1].
Ogunbiyi and Enechuwu (2021) report that claims of African black soap having moisturizing, exfoliating, anti-aging and anti-acne properties are largely anecdotal [1]. The researchers write, “The exfoliating property of the soap has been attributed to the potash derived from ashes of tree barks, cocoa pods, banana leaves, and kernels.” Also unconfirmed are claims of the soap’s sun protection abilities. This ability is linked to the presence of shea butter, which contains compounds such as tocopherol, phytosterol and triterpenes esters that absorb ultraviolet light [1].
Fasola et al. (2020) found that liquid African black soap inhibits the growth of fungal isolates of Penicillium spp., Penicillium notum, Aspergillus niger and Candida albicans that were taken from soiled dish water. While the study did not isolate fungi that can affect human skin, such as athlete’s foot, it has implications for the further study of the benefits of African black soap. Furthermore, whereas conventional soaps may use inorganic substances to maintain appearance, fragrance and shelf life, traditional African black soaps are produced using organic plant materials that carry a lower risk of toxicity [2]. Additionally, black soap is known for correcting uneven skin tone and eliminating skin rashes and razor bumps caused by ingrown hairs [2]. Fasola et al. (2020) write, “The African black soap has been used over the centuries in Ghana and Nigeria to help relieve acne, oily skin, clear blemishes and various other skin disorders.”
Cautions to consider when buying or using African black soap
Some people have reported skin irritation and itching from using African black soap [1]. Certain additives to the soap may also cause an allergic reaction [1]. When choosing which African black soap to purchase, consumers should be cautious to avoid those with additives to which they are allergic.
Purchasing African black soap
Oladejo (2021) writes about the prominence of African black soap production in Olode village in Ibadan, Nigeria. The role of women in soap production in Olode village is particularly important and, as Ibadan’s population drew from the surrounding Yorubaland region, African black soap features prominently among Yoruba trade [3]. Oladejo (2021) writes, “While men controlled the farming and trade in palm and cocoa, the residual material (by-products) were used by women to produce black soap. The economic implication for women reflected the livelihood, which was entrepreneurial as they took advantage of the by-products in the processing of palm and cocoa to earn income through black soap.” In a society that is patrilineal and where historical accounts focus on men while neglecting women’s histories, it is important to emphasize the significance of women’s roles in producing traditional African black soap.
As discussed earlier, variants of black soap are produced in West African countries besides Nigeria, and in Nigerian regions other than Yorubaland, so Oladejo’s account is specific to one village. Nevertheless, purchasing fair trade black soap can support the livelihoods of women across West Africa.
Works Cited
[1] https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/dth.14870?casa_token=JK-upD1b8n8AAAAA%
3A0FdYxQTac7c1EUGXSif4l5xuTI5OwCzIzUapZEZG1mCHFZXXzULK9T7qUcYXMTl1n0
APob7-ppgDThxv
[2] https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Babalola-Aponjolosun/publication/355350704_AFRICAN_
BLACK_LIQUID_SOAP_ANTIFUNGAL_AND_PHYSICOCHEMICAL_PROPERTIES/links/
616b1cea951b3574c6504d10/AFRICAN-BLACK-LIQUID-SOAP-ANTIFUNGAL-AND-PHYS
ICOCHEMICAL-PROPERTIES.pdf
[3] https://library.ien.bg.ac.rs/index.php/jwee/article/view/1339
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