Algae Skincare Products Are in Bloom
By: Amy Niu
The word “algae” may conjure up visions of green-blue plants floating atop the surface of a lake. But it may be time to consider the uses of algae in skincare products.
Kim et al. (2018) found that marine algae-derived carbohydrates have a plethora of benefits for skin health, including antioxidant, anti melanogenic (preventing freckles and dark spots from forming on the skin), and anti-aging properties [1].
There are more than 20,000 different algae species that are classified into two groups depending on their size [1]. Macroalgae, or seaweeds, are multicellular plants that live in coastal regions, are simpler in structure than terrestrial plants, and are visible to the unaided eye [1]. By contrast, microalgae are single-celled or simple multicellular plants that live in various regions and are not visible to the naked eye [1]. Both macroalgae and microalgae have beneficial effects for skincare, the researchers report.
Among macroalgae, there are three species differentiated by their coloration — brown algae, green algae, and red algae. Polysaccharides like fucoidans, ulvans, and carrageenans are prevalent in marine algae. Fucoidans and alginate from brown algae, ulvans from green algae and carrageenans and agar from red algae are used as stabilizing agents or emulsifiers in cosmetic products.
In addition to their stabilizing and thickening properties, these polysaccharides and others are also bioactive in skincare products, in that they produce beneficial effects on skin health. For instance, fucoidans have anti-melanogenic, anti-aging, moisturizing and antioxidant properties, and they may prevent skin cancer [1]. In addition, ulvans have antioxidant properties; however, this polysaccharide’s complex chemical structure precludes much study of its biological function [1]. Studies have reported that carrageenans reduced melanin in the skin of guinea pigs, and they have antioxidant and photoprotective properties [1].
The researchers note that marine algae are composed of various constituent parts, including lipids, proteins, amino acids, flavonoids, minerals, and carbohydrates. Carbohydrates are the most abundant substance in the algae [1]. They have been previously used in cosmeceuticals — cosmetic products that make use of biologically active ingredients to purportedly produce pharmaceutical effects for users [1].
Cha et al. (2011) showed that aqueous extracts (extracts prepared by evaporating a solution of water and soluble parts of plant material to a solid or semisolid consistency [2]) from brown algae Endarachne binghamiae, Sargassum silquastrum and Ecklonia cava, as well as red algae Schizymenia dubyi, can inhibit melanin synthesis in mushrooms [1].
Quah et al. (2014) showed that ethanol or hexane extracts of brown algae Sargassum polycystum and Padina tenuis have the same effect, as well as that of significantly reducing melanin content in human epidermal melanocytes [1]. The topical application of ethanol and hexane extracts of
Sargassum polycystum particularly reduced melanin production in guinea pigs as assessed with depigmentation assessments and dermal irritation tests.
Fujimura et al. (2002) found that the topical application of the aqueous extract of bladderwrack improved the thickness and elasticity of human cheek skin, suggesting implications for the usage of bladderwrack extract in anti-aging skincare products [1].
Microalgae extracts have implications for anti-aging and skin barrier functions. According to Buono et al. (2012), the microalga Botryococcus braunii demonstrated anti-aging, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects on cell models [1].
Several studies, Kim et al. (2018) report, have shown that topical application of the microalga Chlorella vulgaris can reduce inflammation. These results mean that Chlorella vulgaris extracts have the potential to be effective in preventing or treating inflammatory skin diseases.
Aslam et al. (2021) notes that the trend towards algae and other natural ingredients in skincare is caused by environmental stressors that cause the skin to age quicker, enlarge pores, cause wrinkling and dry skin and make skin thinner and more fragile [3]. In particular, air pollution impairs the function of lipids, proteins and DNA which causes skin aging, oxidative damage and allergic inflammatory responses.
External factors like exposure to cigarette smoke, smog, and UV radiation contribute to facets of skin aging like dull or uneven skin tone and texture and wrinkles [3]. Internal factors such as genetic predispositions, DNA alteration, and autoimmune diseases also play a role [3].
Water retention is important to maintain a healthy skin barrier [3]. Aslam et al. (2021) write that the skin’s ability to retain water decreases with age. Polysaccharides, including those derived from marine algae, have significant water retention capacity and can help moisturize the skin, which makes them a crucial ingredient in cosmetic products [3].
Oxidative stress, a condition that occurs when there are too many free radicals and not enough antioxidants in the body, is a major cause of skin aging [3]. As they are a good source of antioxidants, marine algae polysaccharides can help prevent oxidative stress [3]. This is a benefit
also found in the polysaccharides of tremella mushrooms, which are another popular skincare product ingredient [4].
Aslam et al. (2021) report that Laminaria ochroleuca is coveted in the skin care industry for its compounds that have moisturizing properties. The Chlorella, Spirulina, and Porphyra genuses of marine algae are able to maintain skin and hair thickness, and researchers have patented their
hydrolyzates [3].
Bioactive compounds like beta-carotene, laminarin, fucoxanthin, and polyphenols are extracted from marine algae and put to use in anti-aging skincare products and cosmeceutical lotions, as Aslam et al. (2021) write. This is the case for Isochrysis galbana, which contains a large amount
of bioactive substances.
Pereira et al. (2023) puts a particular emphasis on marine algae polyphenols as exhibiting previously discussed skin protective qualities, including antioxidative properties, anti-aging, anti-wrinkling, anti-inflammatory properties and skin whitening properties, as well as wound healing, anti-allergy activity and prevention of skin-related protozoan diseases [5].
Marine algae are a diverse category of aquatic organisms with a myriad of benefits for skin care. But the cosmetics industry must ensure that the manner in which they harvest the organisms is sustainable.
According to a 2019 report by the U.S. Department of Energy, marine algae have an advantage over terrestrial algae as they do not require land, irrigation, added nutrients or fertilizers in order to be grown. The energy requirements for large-scale macroalgae growing and harvesting operations are not well understood, but they will likely bear resemblance to the energy requirements for aquaculture operations [6].
Sources:
[1] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6266229/
[2]https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/aqueous%20extract#:~:text=noun,a%20semisolid
%20or%20solid%20consistency
[3] https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0048969720384382?via%3Dihub
[4]https://skincareanarchy.medium.com/tremella-mushrooms-the-science-behind-the-folk-legend-26
0fc06acfe4
[5] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10222755/
[6] https://www.energy.gov/sites/prod/files/2019/03/f61/Chapter%205.pdf
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