Caffeine in Skincare: Benefits and Drawbacks
By: Amy Niu
Caffeine is a recognizable ingredient in coffee, tea, and other beverages known for giving consumers a burst of energy to power through the day. Caffeine has been used widely in the skincare industry due to its ability to penetrate the skin barrier and its implications for improved condition [1].
Caffeine as an antioxidant, protective against damage from sun exposure
According to the Cleveland Clinic, caffeine is an antioxidant. Antioxidants protect skin from damage done by free radicals, such as collagen breakdown, fine lines and wrinkles, and saggy or sallow skin [2]. There is evidence that suggests caffeine can protect against photoaging — or aging due to sun exposure — which is supported by its antioxidant properties [3].
Elias et al. (2023) write, “Caffeine supplementation to sunscreen increased the sun protection factor (SPF) value both in vitro and in vivo, without causing erythema or impairing the skin barrier.” Caffeine demonstrated protective effects against UV-induced carcinogenesis [3]. While caffeine has properties that protect against damage done by UV radiation, it is not a suitable substitute for sunscreen, as the researchers note that caffeine was used to supplement sunscreen in the study rather than to replace it.
Caffeine enhances the look of under-eye bags, cellulite, wrinkles
In addition to being an antioxidant, caffeine is also a vasoconstrictor, which means it causes blood vessels to constrict [2]. This, in turn, restricts blood flow to the skin, which can make the skin look brighter and smoother [2].
Caffeine also has anti-inflammatory properties that reduce redness and, as previously mentioned, help soothe sun-damaged skin [2].
Elias et al. (2023) note that caffeine enhances lipolysis — the metabolic process by which fat cells are broken down — so it shows promise as a treatment for cellulite. However, the researchers write, “Larger studies with long-term follow-up are needed before caffeine is upheld as a standard cellulite treatment option.”
The Cleveland Clinic notes that caffeine can also reduce dark circles and bags under the eyes (save for those due to genetics) because it helps with microcirculation — the flow of blood through the smallest blood vessels in the circulatory system [2]. Enhanced microcirculation occurs because caffeine removes the fats that accumulate during lipolysis [3].
Dewi et al. (2021) found that topical application of caffeine (i.e. application of skin creams and lotions with caffeine as an active ingredient) can improve skin barrier function by preventing transepidermal water loss. That is, it helps the skin retain moisture, much like moisturizing creams. Caffeine can also improve skin elasticity, which has implications for reducing the visibility of wrinkles [1].
Other caffeine-related benefits for skin
Rodrigues et al. (2023) reviewed the skincare applications of caffeine from coffee byproducts. They found that chlorogenic acids (CGAs) — a bioactive compound found in green coffee beans — could potentially be effective in preventing acne, as it targets inflammation and sebum production, which are associated with acne development.
Elias et al. (2023) found that incidence of non-melanoma skin cancer (NMSC) had an inverse relationship with increased caffeine consumption. That is, as caffeine consumption increased, incidence of NMSC decreased.
Using skincare products that contain caffeine
Dewi et al. (2023) write, “The use of caffeine in cosmetic products with concentrations of up to 3% is still considered safe, not toxic, and easily absorbed into human skin. Caffeine topically proves safe and does not damage liver cells.”
As discussed earlier, caffeine can increase the circulation of blood to the skin. Skincare products that contain caffeine can cause redness if your skin is highly reactive or prone to redness [5]. This is called “rebound redness,” and it occurs when blood vessels that are often constricted are not exposed to the caffeine that they usually are [6]. Skincare products that contain caffeine are therefore not recommended for individuals with rosacea [6].
If you have sensitive skin or caffeine sensitivity, skincare products with caffeine might also sting or burn [5]. For this reason, you should always perform a patch test when trying out new skincare products [5]. A patch test is where you apply a small amount of a product to the inside of the wrist, wait a few hours, and see how the affected skin reacts [5].
The Cleveland Clinic notes that the benefits that come from caffeine eye creams and skin creams are temporary, just like how a cup of coffee provides you with a short-term energy boost. If you use caffeine skincare products, you should pair them with other beneficial products, such as those with hyaluronic acid to keep the skin moisturized [5].
Works Cited
[1] https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/1/12
[2] https://health.clevelandclinic.org/benefits-of-caffeine-for-skin-care/
[3]https://www.e-ijd.org/article.asp?issn=0019-5154;year=2023;volume=68;issue=5;spage=546;epa
ge=550;aulast=Elias
[4] https://www.scitepress.org/Papers/2018/81520/81520.pdf
[5]https://www.health.com/skincare-benefits-of-caffeine-7509641#:~:text=Side%20Effects%20of%
20Caffeine%20in,stop%20using%20products%20with%20caffeine
[6]https://chatelaine.com/style/beauty/caffeine-in-skincare-faq/#:~:text=Expect%20rebound%20red
ness%20to%20happen,recommended%20for%20people%20with%20rosacea.
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