Explore the World of Cosmetic Formulation with Chemist Kelly Dobos — E.675
Understanding the Science Behind Cosmetic Chemistry with Kelly Dobos
In this episode of Skincare Anarchy, host Dr. Ekta Yadav delves deep into the world of cosmetic chemistry with the highly esteemed Kelly Dobos, a Consultant Cosmetic Chemist and Adjunct Professor of Cosmetic Science at the University of Toledo and the University of Cincinnati. With 25 years of experience in developing skincare and color cosmetic formulations, Kelly shares her wealth of knowledge and insights into the intricate world of beauty product development.
The Path to Cosmetic Chemistry
Kelly’s journey into cosmetic chemistry began with a deep curiosity about the natural world and a desire to understand how things work on a molecular level. While in college, her fascination with chemistry led her to pursue it as a field of study. However, like many in the industry, Kelly didn’t initially know that cosmetic chemistry was a viable career path. After graduating, she began working as a lab assistant, where she quickly fell in love with the process of developing beauty products. This early experience ignited her passion for creating formulations that not only enhance beauty but also improve people’s lives.
Recognizing the importance of understanding the broader business landscape, Kelly pursued a master’s degree in business, which gave her a deeper understanding of how product development interacts with other aspects of a company, such as marketing and supply chain management. She then went on to earn a master’s degree in cosmetic science from the University of Cincinnati, one of the oldest and most respected programs in the field. This combination of scientific knowledge and business acumen has allowed Kelly to become a well-rounded and highly skilled cosmetic chemist.
The Art and Science of Formulation
One of the key topics discussed in the episode is the complex process of creating cosmetic formulations. Kelly explains that when developing a product, chemists must consider a wide range of factors, including texture, viscosity, and the overall feel of the product on the skin. These aspects, known as the rheology of the product, play a crucial role in determining how a product will be perceived by consumers.
To achieve the desired texture and consistency, chemists use a variety of ingredients, including polymers, clays, fatty alcohols, and emollients. These ingredients can be natural or synthetic, and each one contributes to the final product’s properties. For example, ingredients like cetyl alcohol add bulk and a creamy texture to lotions and conditioners, while different types of oils or silicones affect how the product spreads on the skin.
Kelly also emphasizes the importance of understanding the role of each ingredient in a formulation. While certain trendy ingredients may grab headlines, the foundational ingredients like glycerin, petrolatum, and ceramides often do the heavy lifting when it comes to moisturizing the skin and bolstering the skin barrier. At the same time, well-researched active ingredients like retinoids and niacinamide deliver targeted benefits.
The Importance of Stability and Preservation
Stability is a critical aspect of cosmetic formulation, especially for products containing active ingredients like vitamin C, which is notoriously unstable when exposed to light and air. Kelly explains that chemists must conduct extensive stability testing under various conditions, including heat and light, to ensure that a product remains effective throughout its shelf life. This testing also involves evaluating the product’s ability to resist microbial contamination, which is essential for maintaining product safety.
To preserve the integrity of cosmetic products, chemists use preservatives, which have become a point of contention in the clean beauty movement. Kelly points out that while clean beauty standards often demonize certain preservatives, these ingredients are crucial for preventing harmful microbial growth in products. She highlights the importance of using safe and effective preservatives, such as parabens, organic acids, and phenoxyethanol, to ensure that products remain safe for consumers.
Innovations in Cosmetic Chemistry
Kelly is particularly excited about the advancements in biotechnology that are revolutionizing the way cosmetic ingredients are developed. Biotechnology allows for the creation of ingredients through the use of microorganisms, which can produce pure and sustainable versions of ingredients that are otherwise difficult to extract from nature. This approach not only addresses sustainability concerns but also enables the production of high-quality ingredients that are more accessible and affordable.
One fascinating example Kelly mentions is the development of pigments from fungi, which could serve as sustainable alternatives to traditional colorants derived from animals or synthetic sources. This innovation represents a significant step forward in creating more environmentally friendly and ethically sourced cosmetic ingredients.
Clean Beauty and Consumer Safety
The conversation also touches on the controversial topic of clean beauty. Kelly acknowledges that while the clean beauty movement originated from a desire for safer products, it has become misguided in many ways. The binary categorization of ingredients as “good” or “bad” oversimplifies the complexity of cosmetic formulation and often leads to the exclusion of safe and effective ingredients, such as certain preservatives.
Kelly stresses the importance of relying on scientific evidence and regulatory guidelines when assessing the safety of cosmetic ingredients. Organizations like the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) and the European Union’s SCCS play a vital role in evaluating the safety of cosmetic ingredients and ensuring that products on the market are safe for consumers.
Career Advice for Aspiring Cosmetic Chemists
For those interested in pursuing a career in cosmetic chemistry, Kelly offers valuable advice. She emphasizes the importance of building a strong foundation in core scientific concepts, such as hydrogen bonding and acid-base reactions, which are fundamental to understanding how cosmetic ingredients interact. Additionally, she encourages aspiring chemists to take advantage of the many educational opportunities available today, whether through formal degree programs or online courses.
Kelly also highlights the importance of being curious and open to learning throughout one’s career. By gaining hands-on experience in the lab and continuously exploring new ingredients and technologies, cosmetic chemists can push the boundaries of what’s possible in product development.
Conclusion
Kelly Dobos’s insights into the world of cosmetic chemistry offer a fascinating glimpse into the science behind the beauty products we use every day. Her dedication to creating safe, effective, and innovative formulations underscores the importance of science in the beauty industry. As consumers become more informed and demand higher standards from their products, the role of cosmetic chemists like Kelly will continue to be crucial in shaping the future of beauty.
For anyone interested in learning more about cosmetic chemistry or considering a career in the field, Kelly’s journey serves as an inspiring example of how a passion for science and a commitment to excellence can lead to a fulfilling and impactful career.
To learn more about Kelly Dobos and her work in cosmetic chemistry, you can follow her on LinkedIn or explore the courses available at the University of Cincinnati’s Master’s program in Cosmetic Science. Don’t forget to subscribe to Skincare Anarchy on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or your preferred platform. Reach out to us through email with any questions.
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