Jan Marini Masterclass Part 1 on Acne, Podcast Summary and Q&A

1. I’ve heard you say that “acne is an epidemic today.” Can you speak to that a little?
   “It is. It’s an actual epidemic among women in their 20’s, 30’s, 40’s, 50’s, and beyond. When I say women, I’m not leaving men out of it but men typically don’t have acne past the age of 23 because they’ve reached something called terminal beard growth. Beard reaches its full diameter, pushes everything out of the follicle. You rarely see men complaining about acne the way that women do throughout their entire adult life. This is something that affects an individual’s self image and self esteem and it really has an effect on how you view yourself. It’s unfortunate for consumers because there’s not a lot of solutions out there.”
2. How does acne start? What is the process? Is there a cure for acne?
   “I feel that it’s important to paint a picture because oftentimes when you’re trying to find a solution, you don’t know what you’re trying to address. It’s a process. The term acne is a term that’s used to identify a process. It’s very complex, it’s multifaceted, it’s an inflammatory process, and nobody wants to hear this but there’s no cure for acne. Now, we can manage it and we can get a complete and total clearing. Even Accutane is not a cure for acne. Medical statistics show that about 50% of people fail Accutane. Acne starts in the follicle, cells sticking together, it traps oil and there’s no oxygen in there.”
3. What is the solution to achieve complete total clearing?
   “Acne starts in the follicle, you have to interrupt that process. You can get complete and total clearing. I’m a two time Accutane failure, and I never break out, my skin is flawless, all the time. But, if I didn’t do what I do every single day, I guarantee you I would start breaking out. The thing that’s important for people to note, is that you can do something that’s not necessarily appropriate for your skin, and it’s not like you’re going to break out tomorrow necessarily. There can be a lag time.”
4. How do you treat teenage acne?
   “Only about 1–2% of the teenage population escapes acne, let’s say you’re one of those very fortunate people. Theoretically you could put dirt on your face everyday and not break out, acne starts in the follicle. There’s this obsession with cleaning the skin, we’re obsessed with making something go away as opposed to trying to prevent it.”
5. Can you spot treat acne?
   “There are ways in which you can decrease the initial inflammation or help it to go away a little bit faster, by just being more vigilant or aggressive with the topicals that work. But really, it’s about prevention.
6. How can I treat acne if I’m pregnant?
   “Benzoyl peroxide is not contraindicated in pregnancy, but we make a separate benzoyl peroxide that’s not used with the retinol. Retinol, the way it works is that you have a receptor side, everybody does. When it comes in contact with the receptor side, the ingredient in the prescription activates. To think that if you put a retinoid on your face and somehow it’s going to go through your skin and into your bloodstream, into your liver and then into the fetal and the sac, is almost impossible. But, as an overabundance of caution, I understand it.”
7. What about adult hormonal acne?
   “So when you think about adult females, typically they can break out anywhere, but typically the break out whether it was on their forehead or their cheeks as a teenager, maybe they didn’t have any acne when they were a teenager, it started when they turned 25, I hear this all the time. It’s usually on the chin, the jawline perioral area. Typically it is that really persistent, nodular acne. Now, here’s what’s going on. In your follicle, you have certain enzymes that are harmless, and outside your follicle, you have hormones. As women, we have almost as much testosterone as men but it’s bound by hormones. If you have a testosterone sensitivity, and it’s not something that shows up in a blood test, if you produce a bit of excess testosterone, it gathers in the follicle, and it produces another hormone. It’s the most aggressive form and guess what? It’s acne and it’s very stubborn. It’ll fail Accutane, it’ll go away but it will come right back. There is a solution for it, for any acne. Number one: You have to introduce something in the follicle that interrupts this process. Number two: Duality is a product that has two chambers, you pump each side out and then mix it together in your hand. The first chamber is benzoyl peroxide. Benzoyl Peroxide forces oxygen into the follicle. Bacteria can’t survive with oxygen. The second part of the chamber is retinol. This is not just any retinol, retinol is a gold standard for acne, discoloration, aging, etc. They change the makeup of the follicle.”
8. What role does diet play in acne? Are there certain foods that cause or exacerbate acne?
   “We grew up on high carb foods, what happens when you ingest them you’re putting glucose into every cell in your body. Even though you may not be diabetic, as you age your glucose levels and processing isn’t the same as you get older. If you go on a no-carb or low-carb diet, it has a significant effect on inflammation of the skin.”

You can listen to to full episode here:

‎Skincare Anarchy: E.284: Managing and understanding acne ft Jan Marini- MASTERCLASS SERIES on…

Author: Remy Vidal

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