Urea in Skincare: The Ultimate Moisturizer and Exfoliator

4 min readJun 28, 2024

By: Julianna Ancmon

If you’ve ever perused the label on your favorite moisturizer or lotion, chances are you’ve come across urea as one of the ingredients. But what exactly is urea, and why is it gaining attention in skincare products?

What is Urea?

Urea, also known as carbamide, is a naturally occurring substance found in the skin. It plays a vital role in maintaining the skin’s barrier function and moisture levels. While it might sound off-putting, urea is not derived from human or animal urine in skincare products. Instead, it’s synthesized in a lab to ensure purity and safety for cosmetic use.

Understanding the Science: How Urea Works for Skincare

To comprehend the significance of urea in skincare, we need to grasp its role in skin biology. Urea is a naturally occurring substance found in the outermost layer of our skin, known as the epidermis. This layer, specifically the stratum corneum, acts as a protective barrier against external factors while retaining moisture within the skin.

Urea is part of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the skin, alongside other substances like amino acids and lactic acid. As a humectant, urea draws moisture from the deeper layers of the skin and the surrounding environment, helping to keep the skin hydrated and supple.

But urea’s benefits don’t stop there. It also serves as a potent exfoliating agent, thanks to its keratolytic properties. Keratolytics work by breaking down keratin, a protein that forms the structure of the outer skin layer. By facilitating the removal of dead skin cells, urea helps to smooth rough patches, reduce flakiness, and improve overall skin texture.

The Multifaceted Benefits of Urea in Skincare

1. Moisturizes the Skin: Research indicates that urea-containing creams and lotions are effective in treating dry skin conditions. By replenishing moisture and enhancing water retention in the skin, urea helps to alleviate dryness and restore skin softness.

2. Exfoliates Dead Skin: Urea’s exfoliating action promotes the shedding of dead skin cells, revealing fresher, smoother skin underneath. This makes it particularly beneficial for addressing rough, scaly areas and conditions like keratosis pilaris and calluses.

3. Enhances Drug Penetration: Studies suggest that urea can improve the penetration of certain medications through the skin, making it a valuable component in topical treatments for conditions such as fungal infections and eczema.

Harnessing the Power of Urea: Practical Applications in Skincare

Urea creams and lotions find extensive use in addressing various skincare concerns, including:

- Dry skin

- Atopic dermatitis (eczema)

- Ichthyosis (scaly skin)

- Fungal nail infections

- Calluses and corns

- Itchy or irritated skin

Navigating Urea Products: What You Need to Know

When choosing skincare products containing urea, it’s essential to consider the concentration of urea present:

- Less than 10% Urea: These products primarily act as moisturizers, suitable for everyday hydration and maintenance of healthy skin.

- 10% to 20% Urea: Creams and lotions in this range offer both moisturizing and exfoliating benefits, making them ideal for addressing dryness and mild to moderate roughness.

- Higher than 20% Urea: Products with concentrations above 20% are more potent exfoliators and may be recommended for tougher skin conditions and targeted treatments.

Top Urea Products to Try

To help you navigate the world of urea skincare, we’ve compiled a list of top-rated products recommended by skincare experts:

1. CeraVe Psoriasis Moisturizing Cream: Best for psoriasis, this cream combines urea with salicylic acid and ceramides to soothe and hydrate dry, scaly skin.

2. Eucerin UreaRepair PLUS 30% Urea Cream: Ideal for rough, dry patches, this high-dose urea cream helps to soften and smooth areas such as elbows and knees.

3. Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion: A facial moisturizer suitable for normal to dry skin, this lightweight formula contains urea to provide long-lasting hydration.

4. Cetaphil Daily Smoothing Moisturizer for Rough & Bumpy Skin: Formulated with 20% urea, this body lotion is designed to alleviate itchiness and roughness, making it ideal for dry, sensitive skin.

5. Gold Bond Ultimate Healing Foot Cream: Specifically formulated for cracked heels and toes, this foot cream contains urea, aloe, and vitamins to hydrate and soften rough skin.

6. The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA: A budget-friendly option for facial moisturization, this vegan formula contains urea, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides to nourish and protect the skin.

Conclusion: Embracing Urea for Healthy, Radiant Skin

Urea may not sound glamorous, but its skincare benefits are undeniable. From locking in moisture to gently sloughing away dead skin, urea offers a holistic approach to skincare, suitable for various skin types and concerns. By incorporating urea-based products into your skincare routine, you can unveil smoother, softer, and more vibrant skin, one application at a time. So, the next time you reach for your moisturizer, remember the unsung hero: urea, the ultimate moisturizer and exfoliator.

Research Links

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8611129/pdf/13555_2021_Article_611.pdf

https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/urea-in-lotion#precautions

https://www.healthline.com/health/psoriasis/urea-cream

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