Vitamin C and Niacinamide: A Review of Their Role and Interaction in Skincare

Skincare Anarchy
6 min readJul 26, 2023

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Introduction

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) are essential micronutrients recognized for their key roles in maintaining overall skin health. The human body relies on these vitamins for various physiological functions, including the proper functioning of the skin — the body’s largest organ. However, neither Vitamin C nor Niacinamide can be synthesized in the human body, underscoring the importance of their external supply.

In recent decades, the skincare industry has leveraged the potent qualities of these vitamins, incorporating them into a wide array of over-the-counter (OTC) skincare products. The global acceptance of these ingredients is not surprising considering their multitude of benefits, such as skin repair, anti-aging, photoprotection, and improvement of skin barrier function. These effects have been substantiated by a robust body of scientific research[1].

Incorporating Vitamin C and Niacinamide into daily skincare regimens can have a transformative impact on skin health. Vitamin C, renowned for its potent antioxidant properties, helps neutralize harmful free radicals and reduce oxidative stress, a major contributor to premature skin aging and damage. Furthermore, it plays a crucial role in collagen synthesis, a key factor in maintaining skin elasticity and reducing the appearance of wrinkles[2][3].

Similarly, Niacinamide is recognized for improving skin barrier function. It boosts the production of ceramides — lipids that hold skin cells together, forming a protective layer that locks in moisture and shields against environmental damage. Niacinamide also exhibits anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for skin conditions like acne and rosacea. Moreover, it can help regulate sebum production, thus minimizing pore appearance[4][5].

Despite their independent benefits, the concurrent use of Vitamin C and Niacinamide in skincare products has been a topic of ongoing debate due to potential interactions between the two. This article aims to provide a comprehensive review of the roles and interactions of Vitamin C and Niacinamide in skincare, guided by scientific literature. It will also offer practical guidelines on how to utilize these potent ingredients effectively in daily skincare routines.

Vitamin C in Skincare

Vitamin C, a potent antioxidant, plays a crucial role in skincare. Its antioxidant properties help neutralize harmful free radicals and reduce oxidative stress that can lead to premature skin aging and damage[2]. Furthermore, Vitamin C is essential for collagen synthesis, enhancing skin elasticity, and reducing the appearance of wrinkles[3].

Vitamin C, specifically in the form of L-ascorbic acid, is a powerful antioxidant that can degrade when exposed to light, heat, and air. This instability can be evident through color changes, often resulting in yellow-brown discoloration[8]. Proper storage and formulation can enhance its stability. It is often combined with other antioxidants such as Vitamin E and ferulic acid, which not only help stabilize the Vitamin C but also enhance its photoprotection[9].

Niacinamide in Skincare

Niacinamide, on the other hand, is recognized for its role in improving skin barrier function. It enhances the production of ceramides, promoting skin hydration and elasticity[4]. Niacinamide also exhibits anti-inflammatory properties beneficial for conditions like acne and rosacea, and it can help regulate sebum production, reducing the appearance of pores[5].

Niacinamide is generally stable in skincare formulations, showing less sensitivity to light, heat, and oxidation compared to Vitamin C. If these two ingredients aren’t working together, it could result in reduced effectiveness or, in rare cases, redness and flushing[6].

Vitamin C and Niacinamide: Interaction and Use

While both Vitamin C and Niacinamide are beneficial for skin health, their combined use in skincare has been a topic of debate. Early research suggested the possibility of Vitamin C converting to niacin, causing skin flushing when combined with Niacinamide[6]. However, more recent studies have indicated this reaction is unlikely under normal use conditions, suggesting these compounds can be used together safely[7].

A product’s pH can play a crucial role in ingredient compatibility and effectiveness. L-ascorbic acid works best at a low pH (around 3.5), while Niacinamide functions optimally at a pH closer to neutral (around 5–7)[10]. Consequently, a product combining these two should balance their pH requirements.

When evaluating the ingredients list, consumers can check the order of ingredients: those listed first are present in higher concentrations. However, specific concentrations aren’t typically disclosed. As a guideline, effective concentration ranges are typically 10–20% for Vitamin C and 2–10% for Niacinamide[1][5].

The delivery mechanism of these ingredients is key to their effectiveness. Both Vitamin C and Niacinamide are water-soluble, which allows for their integration into a variety of formulations like serums, creams, or lotions. Certain formulations can also incorporate lipid-based delivery mechanisms, encapsulating these ingredients for improved stability and penetration[11].

Conclusion

In conclusion, Vitamin C and Niacinamide both offer substantial benefits for skin health, playing vital roles in maintaining and improving the overall complexion and resilience of the skin. Whether used individually or in combination, these nutrients can address a broad spectrum of skincare concerns, from enhancing collagen synthesis to improving skin barrier function, and from regulating sebum production to reducing skin inflammation.

The dynamic interaction between Vitamin C and Niacinamide is of particular interest. While earlier studies hinted at potential conflicts between the two, more recent research has revealed that they can indeed work synergistically in skincare formulations, offering complementary benefits. Notwithstanding, the debate about their co-application continues, pointing to the necessity for further rigorous, well-designed studies to conclusively address this issue.

Also, consumer education about these ingredients is essential. Knowledge about the stability of Vitamin C, the optimal pH for Vitamin C and Niacinamide, the order of ingredients in a product, and the use of delivery mechanisms can empower consumers to make informed choices in selecting and using OTC products for their skincare needs.

Finally, it’s worth noting that while the topical application of Vitamin C and Niacinamide has clear benefits, skincare is a holistic practice. Proper nutrition, hydration, sleep, and sun protection also play indispensable roles in maintaining skin health. It’s the amalgamation of all these elements that contribute to a comprehensive skincare regimen, enhancing skin health, and aesthetics.

As we venture further into the age of personalized skincare, the understanding and application of Vitamin C and Niacinamide will undoubtedly continue to evolve. This underscores the need for continuous scientific inquiry and public education to ensure the safe, effective, and optimized use of these ingredients in the pursuit of skin health and wellness.

References

  1. Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8), 866. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866

2. Pinnell, S. R. (2003). Cutaneous photodamage, oxidative stress, and topical antioxidant protection. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 48(1), 1 — 19. https://doi.org/10.1067/mjd.2003.16

3. Boyera, N., Galey, I., & Bernard, B. A. (1998). Effect of vitamin C and its derivatives on collagen synthesis and cross-linking by normal human fibroblasts. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 20(3), 151 — 158. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.171747.x

4. Tanno, O., Ota, Y., Kitamura, N., Katsube, T., & Inoue, S. (2000). Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. The British journal of dermatology, 143(3), 524 — 531. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-2133.2000.03705.x

5. Draelos, Z. D., Ertel, K., & Berge, C. (2005). Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier and benefits subjects with rosacea. Cutis, 76(2), 135 — 141. PMID: 16209160.

6. Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 3(2), 88 — 93. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00074.x

7. Bissett, D. L., Oblong, J. E., & Berge, C. A. (2005). Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic surgery, 31(7 Pt 2), 860 — 866; discussion 865. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732

8. Pinnell, S. R., Yang, H., Omar, M., Riviere, N. M., DeBuys, H. V., Walker, L. C., … & Levine, M. (2001). Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies. Dermatologic surgery, 27(2), 137–142. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1524-4725.2001.00264.x

9. Lin, F. H., Lin, J. Y., Gupta, R. D ., Tournas, J. A., Burch, J. A., Selim, M. A., … & Pinnell, S. R. (2005). Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 125(4), 826–832. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0022-202X.2005.23768.x

10. Levitt, J. (2007). The safety of long-term use of high doses of nicotinamide and vitamin C. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 6(1), 40–44. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00300.x

11. Man, M. Q., Yang, B., Elias, P. M., Man, G., & Feingold, K. R. (2020). Lipid Content and Lipid Type as Key Factors in the Pathogenesis of Skin Diseases. Frontiers in medicine, 7, 549597. https://doi.org/10.3389/fmed.2020.549597

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